" journey is what brings us happiness, not the destination... "

Saturday, September 25, 2010


Working almost everday... no waves for almost 3 months, then the typhoon swell arrived. Waiting out in the line up, a set came rolling in from the outside and everyone scrambled outside. I ducked under the first few waves and after popping up, I noticed that everyone had got sucked back... and THERE IT WAS... The last wave of the set, lining up perfect and I was in the perfect spot. The wave set up so nice and I got the most epic ride! The best part was that the wave was photographed! Now I can reminisce on this wave whenever I'm stressed out at work. Thanks for the shot Starboard.Inc ( starb.cool.ne.jp )