Surfing the Typhoon

As you probably all know, a huge typhoon hit Japan, well mostly the southern part. For most people, typhoons mean, rain, strong winds, stopped trains and staying inside your house all day, but for me it means WAVES!!!!! Usually before the typhoon peaks and right after it goes away, the waves in Japan are perfect. My first session in the morning was pretty good, the waves were head high and conditions were really good. I came home ate and rested then went out again, the waves dropped and got a little choppy but was still fun!

Everyday there is this man who wakes up early in the morning and takes pictures of the surf and different scenes of Shonan. Today by chance he took a few shots of me~ ehehe! Thank you! I hope its ok to use your pictures! Felt so good to get in the water, reminded me of being at home in Hawaii.... can't wait until the next typhoon!!